6 Myths About Buying Ethical Clothing

The post below was originally published by Leah on Style Wise. It may challenge some of your viewpoints about ethical shopping, but it’s ultimately meant to empower you. You have more options for making a difference than you might think!

6 Myths About Buying Ethical Clothing

Far and away the most common negative comment I get on ethical fashion articles I’ve written for other sites is some variation of:

“Good for you for having enough money to buy expensive clothes. Some of us can’t afford to buy a closet full of ethical clothing and it’s classist for you to even mention it. Have you no pity on poor people in your own country? And have you considered the fact that people in foreign countries will lose their jobs if we stop buying from sweatshops? Better to have a lousy job than no job at all.”

Some of them are considerably less harsh and some are too horrific to repeat here, but it’s clear to me that the biggest deterrence to acquiring an ethical wardrobe is money. So let me clarify a few things.

Firstly, I absolutely do care about the plight of the poor in my own country. It’s despicable that, despite our national wealth, more than 45 million people live below the poverty line. And we’ve got a few social safety nets, but we haven’t really figured out how to help people get a leg up long term, and it’s only getting worse. And it’s just a matter of fact that low cost, sweatshop-sourced clothing may be the best financial option for a lot of people. If you live paycheck to paycheck and have trouble putting clothes on your back and the backs of your children, please know that I not only feel for you, but I think you need to make the best choice for your family, even if that means making the ethics of your clothing choices less of a priority, or not a priority at all. You are welcome to this conversation, of course, but you may have other things to worry about.

But I also know for a fact that a lot of you can afford to consider your purchases. You’re the ones I’m talking to (and I get the sense that, by and large, you’re also the ones making the most excuses). Reality check: I manage a local thrift shop and my husband is a grad student. We aren’t exactly making it rain over here. But we do benefit a lot from the knowledge that, if something were to happen to us, our parents would be able to step in to support us. We have a social network that makes us feel secure and that helps us make long term financial decisions we couldn’t make if we were going it completely alone. We also don’t have children to support, so our income stretches a bit further.

I am aware of my relative privilege, but I suspect there are a lot of you in my position who don’t realize that it is possible to change your spending habits without breaking the bank. If you can overcome a few prevalent myths, you’ll be on your way to making better choices in no time.

Myth 1: It’s a given that I will buy at least a dozen new items every season.

For many of us, it would be a financial disaster to buy more than a handful of fair trade clothing items every 6 months. But, if you’ve already built a basic wardrobe, you don’t need to buy more than a couple new things a year. Magazines and 5 week trend cycles make us feel obligated to keep up with every new fad on the market, but it isn’t necessary or even fulfilling. You may have to buy less if you’re purchasing from more ethical brands, but that probably won’t hurt you in the long run. Plus, in my own experience, fair trade and domestically produced items from small brands hold up better than fast fashion items anyway, so you won’t need to replace your staples as often.

Myth 2: I can’t dress well with secondhand items.

My go-to advice for people considering their purchases for the first time is to start with thrift shopping. The sticker shock of fair trade and sustainable items will wear off eventually, but in the meantime, try secondhand on for size. A lot of people insist that they can’t get high quality items at thrift shops, but I suspect they don’t regularly visit them. The thrift market is booming and it’s surprisingly easy to find something you like that’s in great condition.

And yes, thrift shopping is a more ethical option, even if you’re buying conventional brands there. Why? Because you’re not contributing to demand for new items and you’re ensuring that things don’t end up in the landfill so quickly. Additionally, money spent at thrift shops supports local charities.

Myth 3: My specific circumstances (size, profession, location) prevent me from buying from ethical retailers.

I feel you on this one. The ethical market is still growing and it’s not always easy – or possible – to find things that fit well or suit your lifestyle. To you, I’d suggest a few options:

  1. Buy from online consignment stores like thredUP and Twice. You may be able to find a greater variety of sizes and styles from secondhand sites online.
  2. Search ebay’s pre-owned section for brands you like.
  3. Buy well. If you can’t find ethical or secondhand options, try to buy things that will last. You’ll save money over time and you won’t contribute as heavily to demand for sweatshop goods. I do this with shoes, because it’s difficult to find well-made, comfortable shoes on the ethical market (though there are a growing number of companies filling the void).

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Thrift Store Score: All the Shirts

Last weekend I was at Goodwill picking up a picture frame and decided to browse shirts on a whim to see if I could fill either of the holes I had previously identified in my wardrobe: blouses for work and casual-yet-stylish t-shirts for the weekend. (As I’ve mentioned before in my thrift shopping tips, it’s best to have something specific in mind when thrifting.)

I must have done something to please the thrift store gods, because I found five count ’em FIVE shirts and satisfied two wardrobe needs! Check and mate.

Photo of thrift store shirts hanging on clothes rack

I got two work blouses and three t-shirts. Picking out a shirt in the morning accounts for about 46% of my sartorial anxiety, so having these extra choices should reduce that dramatically (and enable me to part with some of the shirts I have that I don’t really like).

Julia in a purple thrift store t-shirt

The purple shirt in action! I’ve also already worn both of the work blouses. Coral and teal t-shirts: your time is coming soon.

For those of you who have jumped on board with the blog recently, here’s a recap of why thrift shopping is my absolute favorite way to buy clothing:

  • It eliminates waste. I haaaate waste, so I love the idea of diverting still-useful clothing to a new home instead of a landfill.
  • It’s economical. I got those five shirts for $22! Boom.
  • I get to try stuff on. I like looking at ethical clothing brands online and will occasionally make an online purchase, but sometimes you just need to know how something is going to fit.
  • It allows me to get some newer, on-trend styles without giving my money to brands with questionable manufacturing practices. (I realize this isn’t a perfectly ethical motivator, since the fast fashion cycle is one of the things that makes trendy items available in thrift stores, but if I’m being honest it’s still a reason I like thrifting. I would rather give those items a second life than reject them on principle.)

Have you had any good thrift finds lately? My next wardrobe holes to fill are black flats and a white cardigan, so hopefully I’ll have success stories about those soon.

Thrift Store Score

A few weeks ago I was running errands in the Glendale area of Indianapolis and saw a billboard for a new store called Vintage Vogue just around the corner. I can rarely resist the urge to explore anything labeled “vintage,” so I immediately went to check it out:

Vintage Vogue exterior sign

Before I went in, I pulled up their website to check that they were open and see if they were truly a vintage store, as opposed to a boutique that sells 90% new stuff (which is an irritating trend I’ve seen lately—boutiques trying to bill themselves as vintage when they’re not). I was surprised to find that this particular shop wasn’t truly vintage, either, but not in a shady way—it’s actually a new concept from Goodwill. You could call it “Goodwill: Just the Good Stuff.”

Sales floor of Vintage Vogue store

The shop sells used clothing such as what you’d find at a regular Goodwill, plus accessories and a handful of home decor items, but it’s filtered to include only the more fashionable and high-quality items. As you can see, the store itself is designed like a boutique, in contrast to the bare-bones look of other Goodwill locations. The items are at a slightly higher price point than regular Goodwill, but that didn’t bother me, since I saved time by not having to sift through a lot of out-of-fashion or poor-quality items.

Sales floor of Vintage Vogue store

Following my thrift store shopping guidelines, I looked for a couple of specific items: versatile shirts I could wear to work and on the weekend, and black skinny pants. I found a White House Black Market shirt for $9 and black Forever 21 jeans for $7.50.

Photos of Julia in thrifted outfit

The top right photo is my “Yesssss I found what I wanted!” victory pose.

One concern that occurred to me as I shopped was whether this kind of store takes good items away from regular Goodwill stores. People who can’t afford the higher prices at Vintage Vogue should still have the opportunity to find high-quality items. My thought was that Goodwill’s donation volume is probably so high that pulling items for these stores wouldn’t make a huge difference in the overall selection. The Vintage Vogue website seems to confirm that assumption:

Vintage Vogue merchandise comes from select central Indiana Goodwill stores. These stores hand-pick a small portion of their upscale and vintage donations to send to Vintage Vogue. Special items and boutique merchandise can still be found at any of the more than 50 Goodwill locations in central Indiana.

It looks like Vintage Vogue is just a central Indiana concept right now, with this store in Indianapolis and another one in Bloomington. If you’re in the area and are looking for a gateway into shopping secondhand, I recommend checking it out!

Have you had any good thrift store finds lately? What are your favorite thrifting spots?

News Roundup: June 2014

Conestoga wagon with post title

Circle the wagons, it’s roundup time! To be honest, I didn’t spend a ton of time reading this month. I was too busy trying to get outside as much as possible! However, the stuff I did read was top-notch quality. Check out the links below!

You Don’t Have to Feel It —This post blew my face off with truth. It explores our motivations for doing good, and how emotion can’t be the only motivator we have. (Style Wise)

Dov Charney: the man who put the sleaze factor into American Apparel — American Apparel founder and CEO Dov Charney was ousted this month in relation to alleged misconduct (he’s a notorious creeper, to say the least). I love the manufacturing ethics of American Apparel but have always felt weird supporting them because of their over-sexualized photography and Charney’s grossness. Hopefully his removal means the brand can move in a less offensive direction. (The Guardian)

Benefit Corporations Look Beyond The Profit Motive — Basic overview of the concept of “benefit corporations” (commonly known as B Corporations). The quote below addresses what I think is one of the keys for social enterprise to really take off. Profit isn’t everything! (NPR)

There are legal protections when a state signs on: A shareholder can’t sue a benefit corporation for valuing the environment as much as profit.
— Benefit Corporations Look Beyond The Profit Motive

Greenpeace Reviews Major Food Retailers for Sustainable Seafood Purchasing — One of the best and easiest-to-understand articles I’ve seen about sustainable seafood. (Triple Pundit)

2014 Trafficking in Persons Report — This annual report ranks countries into tiers based on their efforts toward combating human trafficking. (U.S. State Department)

Reader Request: Ethical Jeans — In my post of pants recommendations for Sarah, I noted that ethical high-end jeans being pretty widely available. And what do you know, Jamillah coincidentally just wrote a post with ethical jeans recommendations! (Made to Travel)

Host a Clothing Swap! — Dominique shares helpful step-by-step instructions for organizing a clothing swap with friends—a great way to give old clothes a new home! (Let’s Be Fair)

Top 3 Resale Sites — Elizabeth reviews her favorite apparel resale sites with helpful notes on return policies and how to sell. (The Note Passer)

Did you read the Style Wise link at the top? Go do that now. Then have a great week!

My Top 3 Thrift Shopping Tips

With all of the fair trade topics I have been covering lately, it’s been a while since I’ve mentioned my other approach to ethical consumerism: thrift shopping. While I tend to go fair trade when purchasing gifts for others, when I need something for myself the first stop is the thrift store. Thrift shopping reduces waste by giving old items a new life, and when you buy from a thrift shop, your money does not go to support the companies who produced the items using potentially exploitative practices.

Thrift shopping can be overwhelming, especially if you’re not used to the structure (or lack of structure) in your local resale shops. Here are my top three tips for finding items you will love and wear!

Infographic of top 3 thrift shopping tips

1. Have a specific item in mind

For several years, I viewed thrift stores as magical wonderlands full of treasures for me to discover, and I would go thrift shopping with no set agenda or list. This approach led to me having a closet full of interesting and eye-catching items that didn’t necessarily work together as outfits and weren’t practical for my everyday life.

Nowadays, when I hit the thrift store I look for one thing. Black pants. Comfortable flats. A tan cardigan. Having a specific item in mind helps me focus in the often overwhelming landscape. The time you save by not aimlessly wandering the aisles is time you can spend really evaluating at every available option that matches what you want.

2. Try things on

For me, one of the major benefits of thrift shopping over buying ethically-produced clothing online is the ability to try things on. I don’t have the patience for the song-and-dance of ordering something, it not fitting, and having to send it back. Thrift shopping is my answer to this problem. The clothes are right there! I can try on 10 pairs of pants immediately!

Before you start gathering things to try on, be sure to confirm that the store you’re at has a fitting room. Of the thrift stores near me, Goodwill has fitting rooms while Value World does not. If you’re at an independently-owned vintage or consignment shop, it could go either way, so be sure to look around or ask a clerk if you don’t immediately see one.

Stores without fitting rooms can still be worthwhile stops depending on what you are looking for. You can try on cardigans, jackets, shoes, and accessories without a fitting room, so if I’m looking for any of those things I include stores without fitting rooms in my lineup.

Rack of clothing at a thrift store

Photo credit: tome213 @ freeimages.com

3. If you don’t love it, don’t buy it

This is perhaps the hardest lesson to learn in thrift shopping. I used to buy anything that fit decently, regardless of whether I needed it or what condition it was in (other than major damage or holes). As a result I had a wardrobe that looked like it had already been through the wringer and again didn’t always cohere into good outfits.

Now I ask myself a series of questions before I buy something. Is it in like-new condition, or does it already look worn-out? (Cheap knit fabrics can wear out and pill easily, so check for wear even on current styles.) Do I feel good wearing it? Is it flattering on me? Would I buy this item new if I saw it in a regular store?

Those are my top three tips for successful thrift shopping. I’d love to hear yours—post ’em in the comments!